Category Archives: Cars

Troubleshooting an In-Ground Pool Cleaner

My cleaner doesn’t move

Cleaners depend on several factors to make them operate. There must be enough water flow past the turbine. Use a vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1″ vacuum per section of hose. Pool removal cost Sydney is not a concern as long as the job is done.

Second, the four small “shoes” must be able to grip the pool surface. Make sure that the “shoes” are not worn out and that the surface of the pool is not slippery because of a buildup of algae. Note: some algae is clear, be sure to feel the underwater pool surface.

Third, the shoes and “pods” must be working correctly. Any wear in the “drive train” can cause problems. To check for wear, hold the left and right “pods” in your hands and firmly, try to rock the pods. All force on the pods should be transferred to the turbine and no “play” should be evident.

As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right – not rotate – rotate left – not rotate – rotate right – etc. All the time, the “pods” should be kicking. If you can reach under the cleaner and stop the pods with your hand, there is either excessive wear on the internal parts or inadequate suction. Remember to check the vacuum reading before calling for assistance.

The hoses are twisting

Cleaner hoses cannot be coiled up for storage. If you have coiled them, take the sections apart, lay them straight, and leave them outside for an entire day and night. Once the curls are removed, the hose should be usable.

Cleaner won’t climb the wall of my vinyl liner pool

Depending on the angle of the pool floor to the pool walls, the cleaner may not be able to “climb” the “slope.” Picture the cleaner on the pool bottom at the intersection of where the pool wall meets the bottom at a sharp angle, (like the walls in your house.) The cleaner will not be able to make the transition, don’t worry, it’s not supposed to. After all, the dirt is on the bottom.

The cleaner sticks at the steps

The hose might be too short.

Check to see that the hose extends two full sections past the furthest point in the pool.
Check to see that the return line(s) are not affecting the cleaner’s movement.
Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch of vacuum per section of hose.
Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
Check the rear flap adjuster, and move it to the I position.

As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right – not rotate – rotate left – not rotate – rotate right – etc. All the time, the “pods” should be kicking. If the cleaner is not doing the “test” movements, call Blue Haven Pools & Spas Supplies Direct.

My cleaner floats above the pool floor

The cleaner is heavier than water, and should not float.

Make sure that all the air was removed from the cleaner head and hoses during installation.
Make sure that the hose extends two full sections past the farthest point in the pool.
Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch vacuum per section of house.
Check to see that the return line(s) are not affecting the cleaner or the cleaner hose.
Check for signs of air returning to the pool through the return line(s). Look for air bubbles attached to the cleaner hose and head. If present, pull sharply on the cleaner hose to release bubbles. Then, correct the source of the air leak to prevent further “floating.”

My cleaner moves slowly

Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
Check for obstructions in the cleaner.
Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. It should be 1 inch vacuum per section of hose. If the cleaner still moves slowly, call Blue Haven Pools & Spas Supplies Direct.

The pods at the front of the cleaner are worn

The cleaner is sticking at the steps or against a wall. See cleaner sticking at the steps section above.

Cleaner climbs to the surface and sucks air

The vacuum is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch vacuum per section of hose.
Check the rear flap adjuster, and move it to the I position.
Check the shoes, wings, and flaps for wear.
As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right – not rotate – rotate left – not rotate – rotate right – etc. If the cleaner is not turning, call Blue Haven Pools & Spas Supplies Direct.

The bottom of my cleaner is worn

The shoes are worn, and the vacuum in the cleaner hose is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1″ of vacuum per section of hose. Replace worn shoes.

The top of my cleaner won’t turn

You will not be able to turn the cleaner top when the cleaner is full of water. Drain the water from the cleaner head, and try to rotate the top both left and right – there might be some debris in the gears. If the top does not turn, call Blue Haven Pools & Spas Supplies Direct.

Air comes into my pool when the cleaner is installed, and stops after the cleaner is removed

There is a leak on the suction side of your filter system that only shows up when you stress the system. i.e. – install your manual vacuum cleaner or an automatic vacuum cleaner. Check for obvious leaks at the pump housing, check the lid and o-ring. If the air persists, contact Blue Haven Pools & Spas Supplies Direct.

The flappers/wings have fallen off

There is excess wear on the bottom of the cleaner, and the wing hooks have probably broken off the pods. The shoes are worn, and the vacuum in the cleaner hose is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1″ of vacuum per section of hose. Replace worn components.

Ken Hensley
Ecommerce Manager
Blue Haven Pools and Spas Supplies Direct
shop.bluehaven.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Ken_B._Hensley/223956

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/1252817

Buying a Car: Are Dealer Extras Worth the Money?

If you’re interested in buying a car, you probably know that the process involves several twists and turns, including a few minutes with the dealership’s F&I (finance and insurance) manager, who will likely offer a series of extras and add-ons you can choose to buy. Should you do it? We take a look at whether these dealership extras are worth the extra money. You can show off your like-new car and be a proud owner for years to come using the new car paint protection.

Extra Examples

A car’s sticker price, or even your negotiated price is rarely the end of the story. There are almost always taxes and fees that will boost the final price, as well as a long list of dealership extras that can increase your out-the-door price even more.

One example of such an extra is an extended warranty, which is offered at added cost to car shoppers who may keep a car past its original warranty period. Extended warranties cover additional items that may break even after the warranty has expired.

Vehicle appearance upgrades are another common dealership extra. For example, a dealer might apply a window tint, special wheels or unique pinstriping to a car or truck and then increase the price accordingly. Some dealerships also offer rust-proofing or paint protection.

On the finance side, some dealerships will offer extra insurance. For example, a dealer may try to sell you a life or disability insurance policy that will pay off the car in case the primary owner dies. Dealers will also sell gap insurance, which protects you in case you end up underwater on your car loan (meaning that you owe more on the car than it’s worth), then have an accident. You’re still obligated to pay off the loan, but your insurance company may not think the car is worth what you owe. That gap can prevent you from having to pay money out of your own pocket in case of an accident.

Beyond these common extras, we’ve also heard of a few others, including road-hazard warranties — which cover your tires in case you have a flat — and vehicle-theft tracking systems, such as LoJack, which can help find your car in case it’s stolen. Also often available are all-weather floor mats, which can help protect the car’s original carpet mats.

Worth It?

With so many dealership extras to choose from, how do you know when it’s a smart idea to choose one? Our advice is simple: It often isn’t, but you should weigh your options carefully, regardless.

Extended warranty is a good example of this advice in action. Before agreeing to any extended warranty, ask yourself whether you plan to keep the car beyond its manufacturer warranty period. If you don’t, there’s no need to spend any money on an extended warranty.

If you do plan to keep the car, find out what the warranty covers and how much it costs. You also need to consider exactly how reliable your vehicle of choice is. It’s probably a bad idea to spend several thousand dollars on a warranty that covers only powertrain components in a reliable car, but spending the same several thousand dollars on a bumper-to-bumper warranty for a high-end luxury car may be a smart strategy.

In terms of appearance options, you should never pay the dealer’s asking price for an item you didn’t ask them to install. Do you like the aftermarket wheels they’ve added to your car? If not, have them swap back the original set. Same goes for any sort of pinstriping or chrome trim. We also strongly suggest skipping rust-proofing and paint protection altogether, as most cars come with this from the factory.

In terms of insurance, we’re usually skeptical, but it can be a good idea depending on the cost. We suggest you consider, for example, how far underwater on your loan you are and how far underwater you’re likely to get as your car depreciates. Next, consider the cost of the gap insurance. Spending $2,000 to insure $5,000 probably isn’t a great idea, but spending $200 for the same amount may be a smart move. As for disability or life insurance, we say skip it; you can usually find it for less money somewhere else.

When it comes to the last few extras we’ve listed, we once again suggest using your discretion and spending some time thinking about your own situation. For instance, is your car so likely to get stolen that it’s worth spending a few hundred dollars for a tracking system? Do you have flat tires so often that a road-hazard warranty may be worth it? And do you often work in muddy or dirty conditions that would necessitate a set of all-weather floor mats? If the answer to any of these is yes, opting for this type of dealer-installed extra might be worth it.

In the end, dealer-installed extras may seem tempting, but they can add up quickly when you’re buying a car. So stay smart and evaluate what you really need before signing the papers.

How Much Does it Cost to Paint a Car

At Georgia Square Collision, one of our most frequently asked questions is “How much does it cost to paint a car?” The paint protection Gold Coast treatment provides a Teflon-based coating infused with anti-detergent agents to prevent its protective laying being washed away.

This seems like a simple question, but it’s actually a pretty complicated one.

What the car owner’s goals are for how their automobile will look after it has been repainted.The type and quality of the paint materials, vehicle preparation, and the quality of the paint refinishing process used to repaint the automobile.

In our last post, we discussed whether you should get your car repainted, and now we would like to more fully explain the price ranges for a new paint job. Let’s dig a little deeper into the cost factors.

How well do you want your automobile to be repainted, and how long do you want the new paint job to last?

A number of things affect the quality and durability of an automobile paint job, and therefore, the cost.

There are many different types of paint available today, including enamel, lacquer, urethane, and basecoat/clearcoat, with wide ranges in price and quality. As the price of the paint goes up, so does the brightness of the color and the durability of the finish. Today’s new car paint finishes cost several hundred dollars per gallon, so a budget paint job will not use this level of paint.

Clearcoat top finishes add shine and life to the paint finish, but require an extra application of a different material, adding cost and complexity to the paint process.

If a car needs to be repainted, it’s usually because the existing paint has decayed. This decay can appear as flaking, fading, oxidation, or cracking. In order for the new paint to adhere to the body, the surface should be properly prepared. The damaged paint should be removed, and the surface should be even.

So that the paint will adhere, the body panels must be treated, and a primer or sealant coat should be applied before color. Failure to properly prepare the surface will cause problems like bubbling, or an uneven paint finish.

Improperly repaired prior damage can affect how a new paint job will appear. If a car has existing damage, it is not possible to properly paint without first repairing the damage.

Because auto paint is applied using a spray gun, it’s not possible to apply the paint without covering a fairly broad area. Accordingly, parts like door handles, glass, headlights, taillights, and moldings will be covered in paint unless they are protected.

The two most common methods for protecting unpainted trim are masking and de-trimming. Masking involves covering the trim items with tape, while de-trimming involves removing the items completely, and reinstalling them after the car is painted. De-trimming yields much better results, but involves more labor and cost.

Whether we are talking about the paintings in a museum or the paint on your car, painters are artists, and skill levels vary. Good automobile painters are highly skilled and deservedly better paid than people new to the trade. Differing skill levels are obvious in the quality and beauty of the finished product.

The quality of an automobile paint job is greatly affected by the equipment used to produce it. High quality, properly maintained paint mixing and spraying equipment will result in a smoother and more uniform finish. An airtight downdraft paint booth minimizes debris and contaminants that cause imperfections in the paint finish.

A good paint booth also prevents pollutants from escaping into the air we breath. Believe it or not, some body shops do not even have a paint booth!

Warranties have a lot to do with the quality of the paint used on the car. The least expensive car paint jobs may come with no warranty, or a very short one. Better paint jobs may come with a warranty like the one that came with the car when it was new: 3 years, in most cases. The best warranties, like the one from Georgia Square Collision, stand behind the paint refinish for as long as you own the car.

OK, so how much does it cost to paint a car?

Let’s use a midsize sedan as an example, because the size of the vehicle affects the cost. We will assume that the car needs no body repair work in order to prepare it for painting. A “cheap” repaint of this car will run $1,500-$2,000.

“But wait,” you say.

Don’t want to settle for less than a quality repaint job, but also don’t want to spend several thousand dollars? In our next post, we will discuss alternatives to a full automobile paint job.